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Whistler Wonderland: B.C.'s twin-peak ski resort has it all
By BILL KNIGHT
SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER
NATIONAL SPORTS CORRESPONDENT
WHISTLER, B.C. -- Riding one of those quiet, fast-moving lifts toward the upper reaches of British Columbia's sprawling Whistler-Blackcomb ski complex, the Englishman seemed surprised to be asked why he'd come so far to ski, when Europe's famed slopes were so much closer to home.
The answer was polite and precise -- very, very English:
"We have come here, as you Americans would say, all the way from England, because this is the best skiing in the world.
"Well, at least the best I have experienced."
Before leaving the lift to explore the open terrain of Whistler's Symphony Bowl high in the pristine alpine slopes, well above the tree line, the British visitor explained in more detail why he would come halfway around the world rather than ski in the Alps.
"The snow is more consistent than Austria or Switzerland. The prices -- with the Canadian dollar exchange -- are better, substantially. And you must know, every serious skier in the U.K. has heard about Whistler, the sheer size, the variety of terrain and the facilities."
Sweeping his arm toward the valley below, he added: "Down there in the village you can have a memorable party, good food. And there's nothing snooty about the place, you see?"
Last winter 1.7 million skiers saw. That's more than visited any other ski resort in North America.
The Englishman's comments tell more than any slick brochure or lavish advertising campaign why the twin peaks in the Coast Mountains, 75 highway miles north of Vancouver, rank with the world's finest ski getaways.
As Whistler-Blackcomb's international reputation grows, so does the number of destination skiers. Roughly 50 percent of the ski population still comes from Vancouver, many making the round-trip drive for a day on the slopes.
But of those who stay overnight, about 60 percent are international visitors, according to Barrett Fisher of the Whistler Resort Association.
About 30 percent come from the United States, followed by 15 percent from Japan, 10 percent from Great Britain and Germany, and the rest from Latin America, Australia and New Zealand, Fisher said.
Many Seattle area skiers, long frustrated over the absence of a significant destination ski area within a reasonable drive time, are elated over the development here. No longer do they have to pack skis and boots and head for Sun Valley, sites in Utah or Colorado, or any one of several other Western U.S. ski meccas. In normal conditions, Whistler is a five-hour drive from Seattle.
Whistler-Blackcomb represents an investment of nearly $2.5 billion, creating North America's largest winter resort: modern lifts, terrain development, slope grooming equipment, hotels, restaurants, roads and a variety of other support services.
The enigma of Whistler is positive: The combined ski areas can handle far more than 20,000 skiers at one time, yet the waiting lines at most of the 28 lifts that spread schussers over 7,000 acres of ski terrain and 200 runs are short or often non-existent.
If this sounds like a huge serving of hyperbole, consider:
Three leading publications whose readers make up the majority of America's discerning recreational skiers -- Ski, Snow Country and Skiing -- have led the chorus of raves on numerous occasions.
They have consistently ranked Whistler-Blackcomb as the No. 1 place to ski in North America.
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What is so compelling about Whistler to win such accolades?
For starters, the terrain.
The slopes offer every variety of challenge, every skiing opportunity for every level of skier, from kids on the bunny hill to fearless experts who thrive in the chutes, bowls and big steeps.
The sheer size of what is available on two big mountains, side by side, served by the same central village -- now a town of 7,500 permanent residents -- dwarfs most rivals.
It would never quite work with just one mountain. Whistler, the first to be developed, starting in 1966, and Blackcomb, the upstart that arrived in 1980, complement one another.
The competition of two mountains made both ski areas better as they strove to keep up with each other. It still works that way, to the benefit of visiting skiers.
Whistler escapes the bitter cold of so many resorts because of its proximity to the Canadian coast. The snow may not match the dry powder of Utah but it's usually soft and light. The higher up the mountain you go, the better the snow.
Off the slopes, Whistler is just as impressive, with a wide range of accommodations, shops, restaurants and night spots, all within walking distance of the village between the two mountains. Entertainment abounds.
To enhance its international image, Whistler is a regular site of world-class events for ski, snowboard and freestyle competitors.
The World Ski and Snowboard Festival is April 4-13, the World Freestyle Championships are tomorrow through Sunday. The Men's World Cup Downhill was supposed to be held Dec. 8, but despite round-the-clock work on the slopes it had to be called off. Too much snow.
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