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Winter snows bathe Kennedy Hot Springs in more savory light
By KAREN SYKES ![[Bio]](../image/bio_bttn.gif){kind=small}
SPECIAL TO THE POST-INTELLIGENCER
I never had a strong desire to visit Kennedy Hot Springs. I had heard they were crowded, dirty and that unsavory people sometimes gathered there to drink and cause trouble. On our way to climb Glacier Peak, we passed right by the springs, not even bothering to take a look.
In winter, however, the thought of sitting in a hot spring became more attractive and we believed that late November might be the ideal time to snowshoe to Kennedy Hot Springs (even if we weren't sure about getting in the ill-rumored water).
Family, friends and my husband John's Boy Scout troop gathered to make this an official scout backpack.
The trailhead is at 2,300 feet. We traveled the snow-covered road in four-wheel-drive vehicles without any problems, but passenger cars would have been out of luck.
Road conditions vary from month to month in winter, so you may have to wait until later in the season, or plan to hike or snowshoe part of the road if driving it becomes impossible.
When we finally did the hike, we needed snowshoes right from the start, particularly with our full packs. My friend Kathe and I brought up the rear so we could snap pictures and take our time.
Conditions couldn't have been better. Snowshoeing was like walking through a Christmas card -- the sun was shining, the snow was bright and the trees were festooned with curtains of fluff under a blue sky.
Even when the snow deepened, we had no trouble following the trail, with its ups and downs. We were tired by the time we got to the last stream crossing and, with a foot of snow on the bridge, we found it a challenge in snowshoes.
When we reached camp exhausted but happy, we found the tents already set up and the boys crowding into the hot springs, which steamed like a cup of mocha. My resolve not to enter the water dissolved when I saw how warm it looked.
The water didn't look clean by any stretch of the imagination, but we reasoned it had been awhile since the crowds had been there, so I jumped in. The springs are big enough to accommodate about three people at a time.
Incidentally there is an unofficial "clothing optional" policy at the hot springs, so be warned.
The worst part was having to get out of the warm water and put on our cold, clammy clothes and wet boots. It snowed through the night and we had to shake snow off the tents, but by morning the sun was shining again as John prepared a cheese omelet and hash browns for breakfast.
It was a memorable trip and well worth the effort, but it is not a suitable winter trip for beginning hikers or snowshoers. Unless you have snow-camping experience or training, knowledge of avalanche and winter hazards, appropriate technical skills and equipment, and are in good shape, this is not recommended as a winter backpack.
Route-finding skills also may be needed in addition to backcountry winter know-how. Strong, experienced hikers will enjoy this as a day hike or snowshoe trip, depending on conditions, but should be prepared for a strenuous day. Call the Darrington Ranger Station before setting out to determine whether you can drive to the trailhead. If you have to snowshoe part of the road, the trip will be longer and more difficult.
If snowshoeing doesn't appeal to you, the trail is an excellent hike later in the year, and is generally open May through November. The high point is at 3,300 feet, making it one of the most popular valley hikes in the Glacier Peak region. Unfortunately, the hot springs are the main attraction, though they shouldn't be -- the surrounding forest is more worthy of our attention.
The springs could never be called "scenic" and hikers are advised to avoid them during the summer when the bacteria count can be high.
Getting there
From Darrington drive southeast on the Mountain Loop Highway nine miles, then turn left onto Forest Service Road No. 23 (also known as the White Chuck River Road). Drive 10 miles to the end of the road and the parking area for the White Chuck River Trail, elevation 2,300 feet.
Trail detail
The White Chuck River Trail (No. 643) heads east into the valley along the north side of the river before beginning a gentle uphill climb. Floods in recent years have damaged the trail heavily, but it has been repaired and restored as far as the ranger's cabin at the five-mile mark, near the springs.
In about a half-mile, the trail climbs and begins a long traverse toward the Kennedy Creek Basin. Stream crossings may present special challenges to people on snowshoes. The first stream crossing (Fire Creek) is reached in 1 1/2 miles. Near the two-mile point, Pumice Creek is crossed. This also is an area where you may encounter mudslide or avalanche debris.
A half-mile beyond Pumice Creek another slide area is encountered on a steep slope. Ice axes should be used along this section of the trail as it is steep and a fall into the river would be disastrous. The final three miles are generally easier as the trail enters Kennedy Creek Basin.
The trail crosses a tributary of the White Chuck River and crosses Kennedy Creek to reach the ranger's cabin (which is locked) and several nearby campsites. If you can't resist a dip in the hot springs, cross a bridge over the White Chuck River and walk upstream to find them nearby.
Trail data
Round trip 11 miles, 1,050 feet elevation gain. As a snowshoe trip, the best time to snowshoe is January through late February. For current information about the road or White Chuck River Trail, contact the Darrington Ranger Station at 360-436-1155. As of a week ago (according to the rangers) the road was snow-free for at least six to seven miles, but there have been no trail reports since then.
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