Macau prepares to rejoin China

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March 18, 1999

Macau prepares to rejoin China

By PRISCILLA CHEUNG
THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

MACAU -- When the tiny Portuguese enclave of Macau makes headlines, it is usually about gangland killings, bombings and drive-by shootings.

Still, for its 420,000 residents, life is often more about idyllic time spent in Portuguese pastry shops or in boisterous Chinese open food markets.

And the sleepy gambling haven near Hong Kong has an added buzz these days. It is busy preparing for the reversion to Chinese rule on Dec. 20 after more than 400 years as a Portuguese colony.

Centuries of European colonization of East Asia will end when the Portuguese leave.

Like Hong Kong, which reverted from British to Chinese rule on July 1, 1997, Macau will become a special administrative region in China with guaranteed autonomy.

Most people do not expect any visible changes after the handover.

"It would be a major diplomatic disaster for Beijing if it goes ahead to crush us, especially when it is so desperate to gain trust and respect from other countries," said Felix Hoi, who manages China City, one of the largest nightclubs.

To the older generations, the change of sovereignty is a vindication of sorts.

Although the Portuguese and the Chinese have largely enjoyed a harmonious relationship, many local Chinese gripe that they were shut out of politics until recently.

Some also accuse Portugal of indifference to its distant colony, blaming that for recent problems that range from a declining economy to escalating violence.

"The middle-aged or older generations are especially happy because Hong Kong and Macau finally are part of the motherland," said Fung Che, 75, a locally born ethnic Chinese.

Macau has been used as an entry- or exit-point for tour groups to China, but travelers rarely spend more than a few hours there and often find it uninviting, even a little ominous. A walk of curiosity into a casino can leave a Caucasian feeling far out of place and unwelcome.

"Violence is so widespread, and everyone lives in fear. The tourists are not coming. I think the Chinese are our only hope," said Fung, who was resting with his dog in a park.

In recent years, the gambling business -- the backbone of Macau's economy -- has bred endless turf wars between Chinese gangs fighting over profits that have dwindled along with Asia's economic fortunes.

Firebombings, drive-by shootings and homicides -- sometimes targeting government officials and casino workers -- are threatening Macau people's laid-back lifestyle.

A government spokeswoman, who refused to be quoted by name, said most of the criminals are mainland Chinese migrants, not local Macau people.

Beijing has said it will station troops in Macau, an announcement that was welcomed by many residents.

However, the Macau government spokeswoman said Portugal, which recalled its military from the colony in 1975, "doesn't see the need to station troops in Macau." She said the two countries are still intalks.