Head east to escape the rain at Juniper Dunes Wilderness

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March 20, 1997

Head east to escape the rain at Juniper Dunes Wilderness

By KAREN SYKES
SPECIAL TO THE POST-INTELLIGENCER

It's March and it seems like the rain is never going to stop, which means for many hikers it is time to head to Eastern Washington looking for signs of spring.

It is still a bit early, but the wildflowers will be showing soon. And if you are an amateur astronomer, this year in early April you might get a better look at the passing comet Hale-Bopp in the clear skies on the dry side of the state.

With or without comets, one of my favorite places to feel lonesome is the Juniper Dunes Wilderness, a desert area of sand, juniper trees, flowers and tumbleweed. It is also a great place to take the family, or even a Boy Scout troop, as my husband and I have done several times in years past.

We like the junipers, the smell of sage, the big, glittering night sky and the 130-foot dunes, which seem out of place.

There's plenty to do besides hiking and star-gazing. Horse riding is allowed, and young and old alike enjoy jumping off these huge mounds of sand. It's not the kind of place you want to hurry through. Take your time and even consider an overnight backpack, since it is a long drive to Pasco, the nearest city.

Administered by the Bureau of Land Management, the Juniper Dunes Wilderness is 7,140 acres and includes six groves that represent the largest concentration of western junipers in the state -- the most northerly reach of this species. These small trees are not as majestic as our red cedars, but are gnarled and tough and attractive in their own way.

There is no water available, so you have to pack it in if you are camping. Other items you might need include field guides, telescopes, a camera and a good map (there are no distinctive landmarks or signed trails in this environment of grasslands and shrubs).

Don't make the mistake of thinking it will be hot because it is desert. Deserts get cold at night, and the infrequent rains can be intense, so you'll need warm clothing. In the mornings and evenings, you might see wildlife and hear coyotes singing in the distance.

I guarantee that, if you live in a city, by the time you get back it will seem like the world is moving much too quickly.

Getting there
RAPTOR RAPTURE: Birds of prey flock to Idaho's Map From the highway interchange coming into Pasco from the north, take the Walla Walla exit (U.S. 12). Drive two miles and turn left on Kahlotus Road. After 5 1/2 miles, look for a crop-spraying facility and turn left on Peterson Road, which might be unsigned. Drive four miles and turn right onto a dirt road and look for the parking area. Most passenger cars should stop here. It's another 3-1/2 miles to the wilderness boundary -- where all vehicles must stop -- and the road is rough with loose sand and ruts.

Trail detail
Follow the road to the wilderness boundary, and begin looking for mule deer, coyotes, kangaroo rats or Swainson's hawks. This is not a hike in the usual sense. There is no obvious trail. If you're worried about getting lost, follow the road that crosses the wilderness boundary about 1-1/2 miles to an old fence line. Follow that north about a mile to the juniper groves. Then just wander, marveling at these trees that survive in 12 inches of rain a year. A compass comes in handy. When we took Scouts out a couple years ago, they immediately headed off in the wrong direction.

Trail data
Length of the hike depends on your inclination, but there is negligible elevation gain. For an update, call the BLM Spokane office, (509) 536-1200. A recent fire caused some damage to parts of the wilderness, and the BLM asks that you not camp in burned areas. The BLM requires a permit for overnight stays, use of pack animals or for groups of 10 or more. For more information, see "100 Hikes in the Inland Northwest" by Rich Landers and Ida Rowe Dolphin (The Mountaineers, 256 pages, $14.95).

Karen Sykes is a Queen Anne resident and avid hiker who has been traveling Northwest trails for 27 years.