Dungeness Spit ideal for novice hikers and bird-watchers alike

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March 27, 1997

Dungeness Spit ideal for novice hikers and bird-watchers alike

By KAREN SYKES
SPECIAL TO THE POST-INTELLIGENCER

I was a novice hiker when I signed up for my first Mountaineers hike back in 1980, to Dungeness Spit because it had no elevation gain and I didn't think I could go uphill.

I had no sleep the night before. I worried about being the slowest hiker in the group or worse -- what if I couldn't finish the hike and had to be rescued?

I packed and repacked my pack several times, making sure I had all the essentials. Everything I wore was brand new and when we met at the trailhead I looked like I had stepped out of an outdoors catalog.

I survived the hike and even enjoyed it, amazed that I made it to the lighthouse and back.

Dungeness Spit is a safe choice for a first hike. It's close to civilization with good restaurants nearby, it's not uphill, it's in the rainshadow, the place is absolutely gorgeous and can be hiked all year.

Put on your gear, a pair of good boots, a warm hat and start walking. Hike as much, or as little, as you like, and since this is a refuge for birds, you might want to toss a field guide into your pack.

Spring is a good time to look for shorebirds. In winter, look for eagles. Waterfowl you might encounter are harlequin ducks, black brant, scaup and colorful tufted puffins, which nest at nearby Protection Island.

If you are a birder, you will be enchanted, but even a novice will be enchanted by the sight of a heron perched on one leg, silhouetted against the sky.

The photographer will enjoy the tangle of driftwoods in all its shapes -- each piece has a story to tell. Everyone in the family will enjoy beachcombing. The beach is alive with brilliant stones, strands of shining seaweed, and the wind from the Strait of Juan de Fuca will put roses on your cheeks.

On a clear day there are views: across the strait to Vancouver Island, and to the east, the Cascades. You might even catch sight of a harbor seal playing hide-and-seek with you as you stroll along. Let the children run ahead while you stroll.

Don't expect solitude in summer, or on spring weekends. This place is popular.

Getting there
Map of how to reach Dungeness Spit Drive U.S. Highway 101 west from Sequim five miles and turn north on Kitchen Dick Lane. Follow the signs to the Dungeness Recreation Area, about three miles. Drive into the parking area for the Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge and restrooms.

An entrance fee of $2 per family or individual is required.

Trail detail
The trail begins with a short descent through forest and reaches the base of the 5-1/2-mile-long spit, one of the longest in the world. You may encounter raccoon on this first portion of the trail. You can hike on either side of the spit except at times when the inside -- the bay side -- is closed to protect wildlife.

The inside of the spit is protected from storms and is home to thousands of waterfowl. The best viewing is within the first mile, and this stretch is also the area where you will least disturb the birds.

If you walk on the outer side of the spit, you will experience firsthand the drama of crashing waves, bobbing seals and ships in the misty distance. The air seems to crackle with positive ions.

No hiking is permitted beyond the lighthouse, 5-1/2 miles out. This makes a good place for lunch, before a philosophical stroll back. The lighthouse looks poetic in this setting, and some beacon has been shining here since 1857.

The large number of hikers that come to this area is causing concern among refuge managers in the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, and the spit has seen other troubles.

In 1985, a tanker ran aground 10 miles to the east and thousands of birds were coated by oil carried by the tide.

Be sure to obey all rules and regulations, which are posted at the trailhead. It's a small price to pay for the luxury of having this great inland sea and its rich marine life at your fingertips.

Trail data
Round trip to the lighthouse is 11 miles. Allow eight hours. Refer to "Walks & Hikes on the Beaches Around Puget Sound" by Harvey Manning and Penny Manning (The Mountaineers, 271 pages, $14.95) or "Washington Wildlife Viewing Guide" by Joe La Tourrette (Falcon Press, 96 pages, $5.95)

Karen Sykes is a Queen Anne resident and avid hiker who has been traveling Northwest trails for 27 years.