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NWsource

Getaways

April 11, 1996

If you want to see a waterfall, Washington state offers a number of scenic vistas:

Map

Columbia River Gorge

The Oregon side of the gorge might best be characterized as waterfall nirvana.Seventy-seven major falls in a 420-square-mile area make it the densest concentration in the Northwest. And they come in a stunning variety: triplets, punch bowls, tiered, horsetails, evenfalls with trails behind them.

For those who don't care to stray far from the car, point the grill toward Exit 31 onInterstate 84. Multnomah Falls, a jaw-dropping plunge of 542 feet -- fourth highest in the U.S. --is reached by a short path from the parking area at the exit.

For a more intimate experience, several trails follow streams into the hills just south, andall feature falls. Floods in February damaged some of the trails, however, and several wereclosed. Forest Service officials say all but Wahkeena Trail 420 and Perdition Trail 421 should beopen by now.

Falls along two of the best trails are accessible: Horsetail Falls Trail 438 and EagleCreek Trail 440, the most popular in the gorge.

For the Horsetail Falls Trail, take Exit 35 off I-84 and head 1.4 miles west on theColumbia River Historic Highway to a parking area you can't miss because Horsetail Falls roarsout of a cliff directly across the road, its flow then tunnels under a bridge.Follow the trail to the top of Horsetail and then inland, and in 1/2 mile you'll reach novelPonytail Falls, where the path actually passes through a chamber behind the falls. Continueanother 1.2 miles to a real stunner, Triple Falls, which plunges in three branches more than 100feet and is rated the maximum five stars in Plumb's guidebook.

On a recent visit, Michael Bacon of Portland was encountered taking in the ambience andoffered a local's advice: "Wahkeena is one of the prettiest, but probably the best time to see it isin the dead of winter when everything is frozen. In the summer, you can go to (Lower) OneontaFalls. It's in a narrow gorge and you have to walk in the water to reach it. That's part of the fun."

The entrance to Oneonta Gorge and its hanging gardens is less than a mile west on thehighway from the Horsetail parking area.

For Eagle Creek Trail drive east on I-84, farther up the gorge and take Exit 41. Itfollows a path carved into basaltic cliffs and features petrified trees, spring wildflower displaysand "High Bridge," 150 feet above Eagle Creek, not to mention Punch Bowl and Tunnel falls,rated four and five stars respectively by Plumb.

"It is one of the most unique places I've ever been," says Mike Ferris, spokesman for theColumbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. "You have all this columnar basalt and a littlepathway along the cliff wall. It's not for the light-hearted."

The trail has no outer guardrails along precipitous stretches, so it is not suitable forchildren. Punch Bowl Falls is 2.1 miles from the trailhead and Tunnel Falls (the trail tunnelsbehind it) is 6 miles.

Enchanted Valley

Renowned for late spring and early summer hiking, the upper East Fork of the QuinaultRiver in Olympic National Park is also called "Valley of a Thousand Waterfalls." No single fallshere is overwhelmingly spectacular, but a stunning scene is created by dozens and dozens of fallsdripping and plunging from a long, 4,000-foot cliff on the valley's north-west side, in a setting ofalder groves, river meadows and ferns.

"The water is just skipping and roaring off the mountain and there are mists and rainbowsblowing off the rock," says Bryn Beorse, a former Aberdeen resident who has explored the valleyextensively. "It's a real pretty place to go early in the season."

The stretch known as Enchanted Valley begins 12 miles up the trail, so this is abackpacking venture. Be prepared, and don't plan on staying in the Enchanted Valley Chalet,which is maintained for rangers and emergency use only.

Rangers report significant storm damage to the trail, which crews will began repairing inmid-April. Take Highway 101 to Lake Quinault, then follow Northshore Road to the GravesCreek Road, then head east to the trailhead. (Southshore Road was blocked by a slide when thiswas written. When the slide is cleared, Southshore Road would be quicker, if you are comingfrom the south.)

Mount Rainier

Most of the 123 major falls on the flanks of the mountain are at elevations covered bysnow until late June or July. The best are Comet, Spray and Clear Creek falls, all rated five starsby Plumb.

For Comet, drive State Route 706 to the Nisqually entrance to Mount RainierNational Park, pay the $5-per-car entrance fee, and continue west, noting Cougar Rockcamp-ground -- 2.3 miles beyond is the Comet Falls trailhead. The trail passes Middle VanTrump and Van Trump Falls before specta-cular Comet blazes into view, plunging 320 feet froma hanging valley, at 1.9 miles.

To reach Spray Falls, head south from the town of Buckley on SR 165. Three milespast Carbonado, take a right on a gravel extension of 165 (damaged by floods, it should be fixedthis summer), ending at Mowich Lake in 16 miles. From there, hike the Wonderland Trailsoutheast for 0.4 miles, turning left on the Spray Park Trail for 1.9 miles to the beautiful fan-typefalls, 50 to 80 feet wide.

To reach Clear Creek Falls, drive 2.5 miles east of White Pass on U.S. Highway 12to a marked parking area. A short trail along the canyon rim leads to a viewpoint of the 300-footplunger.

Skykomish, Snohomish Rivers

Seattleites are fortunate to have two beauties virtually in their backyards: Wallace and, ofcourse, the ever-popular Snoqualmie Falls.

Snoqualmie Falls, a hallowed area to the Snoqualmie tribe, is often spectacularduring spring runoff, despite the diversion of much of its flow by Puget Power. The particularlypretty 268-foot falls is best viewed from below, and its wide pool has been a favorite summerswimming hole for generations of the Seattle-area's Eastside residents.

Follow SR 202 east from Fall City, taking a right on Fish Hatchery Road in about twomiles. Follow that to its end at a gravel parking area, and then walk a gated road -- foot accessallowed -- a short distance down to the river and Puget Power's generating station. Pick up a trailbehind the powerhouse, (the trail also descends from the viewing area above the falls off SR 202)and follow it about a half-mile to the pool.

Wallace Falls is reached by heading north from U.S. Highway 2 at the town of GoldBar, following the signs to Wallace Falls State Park. Take the Woody trail from the park abouttwo miles (three if you take a longer, less steep side route) into the scenic canyon of the SouthFork Wallace River to a viewpoint above the 250-foot main falls, a horsetail, and one of 11separate plunges.

Eagle Cliff/Lewis River

The Eagle Cliff/Lewis River region of the Gifford Pinchot National Forest north of the ColumbiaRiver Gorge is also known for fabulous waterfalls -- Lower Lewis Falls is a particularlyimpressive example of the block form. Unfortunately, flooding in February ravaged dozens offorest roads that lead to the falls. Many are closed and might not be repaired until next year.Forest headquarters will send a free brochure on the falls and provide road condition updates.Call or write P.O. Box 8944, Vancouver, WA 98668-8944; (360) 750-5001.

-- Comiled by Greg Johnston