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Springtime snowshoeing
Heavy snowpack makes mountain hiking fabulous, despite avalanche dangers
By GREG JOHNSTON 
SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER REPORTER
STEVENS PASS -- Snowshoeing might be one of the fastest growing winter sports, but a lot of people are going to find out this year that it's downright fine in the springtime.
The differences were vividly demonstrated during a recent snowshoe hike by a party of five to Lanham Lake, a pretty alpine lake in the still-white forest beneath the cornice-crowned ridges of Jim Hill Mountain.
The short days and early darkness of winter were forgotten during a bright and soulful April afternoon.
The spring sun's warmth on this blue-sky day penetrated right down into our winter-weary bones. There was little chance -- and no fear -- of a sudden blizzard or whiteout.
Our route through forests of silver fir was virtually free of avalanche danger. But we did find amusement in dodging snow that frequently fell from sun-warmed branches in cloudlike puffs of white and hit the ground with muffled "fwhumps."
This year's intense snowpack -- pushing 180 percent of normal in the North Cascades -- means that hikers with a hankering to hit the high country will have to use snowshoes or backcountry skis well into June.
"Our normal hiking areas are going to be late this year," says Tim Foss, wilderness coordinator at the Wenatchee National Forest's Cle Elum ranger station. "People are calling asking about the Pete Lake Trail (a trail that melts out early). It's still under 8 feet of snow."
How fast the snowpack melts will depend on spring temperatures and rainfall, but trails above 4,000 feet might not be snow-free until July. Snow could remain on many higher passes right through summer and fall.
However, despite dire warnings you might have heard about the avalanche danger presented by this massive snowpack, it won't keep most avid hikers out of the hills. More hikers these days push the snow line in spring, hiking their favorite trails and carrying snowshoes to use when needed.
"When you hike up to the snow line, you either turn around or start post-holing," explains Ann Marshall of Port Orchard, editor of Pack & Paddle magazine, using the term for stepping knee-deep in snow.
"Or you can put on snowshoes."
On the trip to Lanham Lake, we were lucky to have ideal conditions. About a foot of snow had fallen over the previous two nights, creating a soft layer on top of the previous crust. That made breaking trail not too difficult and speeded our downhill return by providing a cushioning layer that reduced impact to the knee joints.
The company proved pleasant as well: Sarah Smith, a wildlife biologist for the U.S. Forest Service in summer and employee of the Stevens Pass ski area's Nordic Center in winter; Michael Power, manager of the Nordic Center; and Scott Egbert, my tried-and-true hiking buddy and an avid snowshoer. All three are from the Leaverworth area, and they ably accommodated a P-I reporter and photographer.
Power and Smith said the Nordic Center has experienced the growth of snowshoeing, having to double its fleet of rental snowshoes for three straight years because of demand.
Some days this season the center, about fives miles east of the ski area and now closed for the season, rented more snowshoes than skis. Most who rent snowshoes have limited experience but take to it rapidly.
"It seems like it dawns on them, 'I can do this,"' said Smith. "That's what we're trying to do, create that awareness."
Egbert, who on our many trips into the backcountry has shown a particular fondness for more contemplative scenes and moments, took to snowshoeing a few years ago like a hare to a hole in the snow.
"It's so quiet," he said. "It's a non-technical skill. You go at your own pace. I've never taken anyone out snowshoeing who didn't enjoy it. No one's ever said, 'This sucks.'"
The Lanham Lake Trail begins at the Nordic Center, gaining 1,100 feet of elevation in 1.6 miles. We climbed the first stretch in young forest before breaking out onto a power line that provided views north across U.S. Highway 2 to huge avalanche chutes that sweep down Nason Ridge.
The trail reached Lanham Creek, which we kept to our left as we climbed again in forest, first young second growth and then true old growth. At one point Smith, who conducts wildlife surveys for the Forest Service, stopped and gave a few uncannily realistic owl hoots with her voice, but got no response.
"They're most active in the early morning and evening," she said. "They're probably napping at this time of day."
We continued, dodging snow dropping out of the trees with increasing frequency as the day warmed.
After all the publicity about avalanche danger, many people mistakenly think they should stay out of the mountains this spring.
Because climatic conditions over the winter allowed few occasions for snow crusts to bond, the potential for "climax" avalanches is high. But there are many places in the mountains that remain safe even when avalanche danger is extreme, as our trip demonstrated. And experts say cold rains most likely will stabilize the snowpack, and that has begun.
"The fact that we have a deeper snowpack doesn't mean people should stay away from snow all spring," said Kenny Kramer, Northwest Avalanche Center meteorologist. "You are going to want to monitor the weather and do all the things you'd normally do before going out into the mountains in snow."
If you avoid open slopes, the danger of slides is minimal. Choose a route through the trees. Sudden warming of 5 to 15 degrees, particularly accompanied by rain, or snowfall at a rate of an inch per hour or greater, means you had best stay out of the hills.
Never go alone, and carry the usual essential survival gear. Check the avalanche center's hot line before your trip. If you must cross an exposed slope, do it one at a time.
It is also wise to remember that in spring, conditions vary as the day warms, says Steve Zimmerman, who operates Silver Moon snowshoe rentals in the town of Plain north of Leavenworth. He is known locally for monster snowshoe treks.
"The snow is going to get softer and sloppier," he says. "You want to put the miles behind you early, when the snow is firm, and consider timingwise that it's going to be twice as hard coming out."
Zimmerman also advises that you watch out for holes under thin snow, created during the melting process near trees and rocks and along streams. "They'll sneak up on you," he says. "Definitely you need to have another person with you. A knife is worth carrying. I've had to reach down and carve off a couple of straps to get out of holes."
Two hours in, we crested a slope and arrived at the lake, frozen flatter than a platter and covered by snow, at the base of 6,765-foot Jim Hill's forested flanks. Huge cornices -- wind-whipped edges of snow -- curled off ridges between the peaks, and the sunshine made its snowfields look like huge fields of cream.
We tamped the snow flat with the shoes and sat down to enjoy the view, eat lunch and absorb some rays.
The descent to the trailhead was exhilarating and took half as long as the climb in. Since the trail was in the trees, the snow did not get too sloppy and cushioned each step, allowing big strides and even a sort of leaping run on the more mellow slopes.
All in all, it was the least frigid, most pleasant and enjoyable day on snowshoes I've had in about a half-dozen trips, the rest in the dead of winter.
In the future, I'll regard springtime as prime time to strap on snowshoes.
Snowshoe tracks
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