The sweet smells of spring beckon hikers to gemlike Fragrance Lake

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April 23, 1998

The sweet smells of spring beckon hikers to gemlike Fragrance Lake

By KAREN SYKES
SPECIAL TO THE POST-INTELLIGENCER

I didn't know why they called it Fragrance Lake until recently. The name summons up images of lotus-eaters and tropical blossoms in a mysterious, remote setting. Fragrance Lake is neither mysterious nor remote, but it is a jewel of a hike, hidden away from busy cities and small towns, not far from the concrete river of Interstate 5 near Bellingham.

A pleasant hike anytime of year, Fragrance Lake is a particularly good place to visit if you have only part of a day or lack the desire to do something more rugged. Hike in the winter when the mountain trails are snowbound, or go now in this transitional period when winter still lingers in the mountains.

We hiked to Fragrance Lake for the first time on a cold, clear, winter day, delighted by groves of cedars and rock walls covered in greenery. The day was so still that it was hard to tell where the lake ended and the reflections began. There were many fragrances that day -- the smell of earth, of mushrooms and fallen leaves, of rain that had already fallen and of rain yet to come, and the smell of decay and regeneration. It's the kind of place that makes you want to build a cabin and wall out the world. It's the kind of place you want to keep.

Chuckanut Mountain sits in Larrabee State Park, at the northern edge of the Skagit River delta, and meets saltwater beaches in a head-on collision. Tangled at the foot of the mountain are trees, lakes and ridges shaped by glaciers long ago. Find waterfalls, views of the Strait of Georgia, spring flowers such as bleeding hearts and trilliums, and a gentle path around the lake.

As for the fragrance for which this lake was named, it evolved from the name of a man who once had a cabin at the lake. He had come from another country and locals mispronounced his name.

Map Getting there
Drive north on Interstate 5, take Exit 231 to Chuckanut Drive (state Route 11) and drive north to the main entrance of Larrabee State Park.

Trail detail
There are three ways to approach the lake, but the most popular route begins at the west trailhead near the main entrance to Larrabee State Park on Chuckanut Drive. The other two approaches are found on Fred Cleator Road, which branches to the east off Chuckanut Drive just past milepost 14. The north trailhead is situated .7 mile down the road and is more challenging, following a ridge before descending to the lake. Watch children if you choose this trail as there are cliffs to avoid. The other trailhead is situated 2.5 miles from the road's junction with Chuckanut Drive and is heavily used by horses and mountain bikes.

From the park entrance walk a short distance and cross the Interurban Trail. Walk less than a mile to another junction. For a good view of the Strait of Georgia, turn left and walk .2 mile. For Fragrance Lake, keep right and climb an easy mile to a stream crossing and another junction near the old Fragrance Lake parking area. Turn left or hike straight ahead to complete the loop around the lake.

Experienced hikers wanting more of a workout can combine this hike with Lost Lake. To reach Lost Lake, begin on the Fragrance Lake trail and, from the old Fragrance Lake parking area (situated just above the trail around the lake), walk down Fragrance Lake Road 200 yards and turn left on an old road. This is the official Lost Lake trailhead (it has a white gate). As you hike this old-road-turned-trail, you'll get glimpses of Samish Bay and the San Juan Islands. You'll reach a saddle at 1.4 miles -- turn left. From the saddle it's another long mile and a 400-foot descent to a junction. Turn right and hike .2 mile to Lost Lake. Find good views and rest stops along the lake's east shore.

Trail data
Fragrance Lake, two to five miles round trip; elevation gain 1,000 to 1,800 feet, depending on approach. Lost Lake is 11 miles round trip with an elevation gain of 1,000 feet.