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High desert choices by rock, by hike, or by fast mountain bike
By Greg Johnston 
SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGENCER REPORTER
Whether by pedal, paddle, sole or rope, there's an intriguing route for you in the high-desert and high Cascades country of Central Oregon around Bend.
Hikers can choose from desert canyons studded by contorted red rock, or ponderosa pine-lined streams and lakes in the Cascade Mountains, much of which are protected in four wilderness areas near Bend.
Similar choices are available to mountain bikers, who can take advantage of serious efforts by Deschutes National Forest managers to accommodate this increasingly popular activity in non-wilderness areas.
Climbers flock to Smith Rock, center of a state park renowned for challenging routes such as "Suicidal Tendencies" and "Tammy Faye Bakker's Face" and there are abundant alpine ascents in the Cascades.
White-water enthusiasts will find outstanding aesthetics and some challenging rapids on the Deschutes and Metolius, both federally designated wild and scenic rivers, as well as the Crooked, which offers serious, technical white water during spring runoff.
Here is the lowdown on each activity.
Hiking
Backpacking in the area centers on the popular, 242,000-acre Three Sisters Wilderness high in the Cascades, crowned by its namesake triple peaks, all over 10,000 feet. It is a magical area of glaciers, alpine meadows, waterfalls, lakes, lava fields and old forests of lodgepole and ponderosa pine on the east side, Douglas fir on the west.
Visitation doubled in the wilderness from 1982 to 1992, with highest use areas including the Green Lakes and Obsidian regions -- access to the latter is restricted by permit -- as well as the South Sister climbing trail.
"The lakes are gorgeous and heavily used," said Mare Shey, Deschutes National Forest wilderness ranger. "We pull people from all over the U.S. Of course, there's a huge amount from the Portland and Seattle urban areas."
There are 260 miles of trail in the wilderness, which is traversed for 40 miles by the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail (PCT).
Another major wilderness area on the Deschutes National Forest is the 111,177-acre Mount Jefferson, similar to Three Sisters and also traversed by the PCT, offering 190 miles of trail. One of the top hiking spots here is the Eight Lakes Basin, crowned by 6,100-foot-plus peaks. The 52,516-acre Mount Washington Wilderness is topped by the namesake 7,794-foot peak that towers over 75 square miles of rugged, lava-covered plain; visitation is fairly low.
Diamond Peak Wilderness, at 52,337 acres, is crowned by the 8,744-foot gem, a popular climb. But only 52 miles of trail cross this wilderness. Camping is allowed only in designated spots along many wilderness trails, and be sure to check the signposts at trailheads for other regulations, such as fire bans and camping setbacks from lakes.
There are many popular day-hiking trails in the Bend area, including the fine, 10.4-mile Deschutes River Trail south of Bend. To the north, Smith Rock State Park offers outstanding hiking through a sublime geologic setting, the muddy Crooked River winding along a vast fin of lava rock, studded by precariously balanced boulders.
Mountain biking
A concerted effort by trails managers in the Bend Ranger District of the Deschutes National Forest has provided quality bike trails and helped reduce conflicts between riders and walkers. "We've been trying to keep our trails so the two activities are separated," said Steve Hayden, Forest Service trail crew supervisor in Bend and an avid mountain bicyclist. "We're converting winter cross-country ski trails to mountain bike trails (in summer), and that has helped.
"It is becoming a destination area for mountain biking. We've got several professional racers based here."
Riders can choose between desert country to the east -- nice in spring when the high country is snowed in -- and the hills and mountains of the Cascades to the west.
For the desert, Hayden recommends the Horse Ridge area about 15 miles east of Bend on U.S. 20. "It's mainly on desert roads, with some trails, and it's pretty nice. It can get dusty in summer."
Bicycles are also allowed on many trails at Smith Rock State Park, north of Bend in the Redmond area, and the stunning geology and abundant bird life make a compelling setting.
For the mountains-and-pine experience, several trails west of Bend provide for fine wheel-spinning. Get the brochure mentioned in the accompanying list and head for Sparks Lake/Lava Lake trails system, which includes a daunting, 31-mile loop around Mount Bachelor.
The Tumalo Falls area just west of Bend also is outstanding; just ride west from Bend on Skyliners Road (which turns into Forest Road 4601). Part of this area is largely young pine forest, and you'll find little interference from foot travelers. The route along the South Fork of Tumalo Creek is more popular, but is a fine, challenging ride to the Swampy Lakes area.
Bicycling is also excellent on the Deschutes River Trail, a good option in winter and spring when higher trails are snow-covered, but intensely popular in summer and jammed with walkers, joggers and bikers because of its proximity to big resorts.
There are dozens of other fine rides, and it seems like there's a bicycle shop on every other corner in Bend. They're a great source of local information; competition keeps staffs friendly and willing to steer you in the right direction.
Climbing
Volcanic activity ages ago laid down a long, high, crooked fin of lava known as "welded tuff" -- actually ash erupting under extreme heat and pressure -- that is now the stunning centerpiece of Smith Rock State Park.
The multicolored rock wall, eroded over the eons by the Crooked River, is now nirvana for swallows, hawks, eagles and "rock rats" -- those humans who love vertical challenges on hard surfaces.
Many routes at the park are so popular that most of the rotten, crumbly rock has long since been yanked out by climbers' hands.
"The more popular routes have been climbed so much that the holes are (worn) smooth," said Nat Bockman, a Portland climber encountered at the park recently. "Yesterday I climbed a less popular route and the holes were sharp."
Some climbers decamp for the similar aesthetics of the Skeleton Cave area southwest of Bend, off Deschutes National Forest Road 18, an area pocked by lava tube caves.
Alpine ascents in the Cascades include the Three Sisters as well as Broken Top just to the southwest at 9,175 feet. To the north, Mount Jefferson (10,497 feet) is another popular climb.
Local information is available at any of several climbing shops in the Bend and Redmond areas.
Rafting, kayaking
Most of the white-water runs in the immediate Bend area -- such as the upper Deschutes -- are short, mellow and particularly scenic. Rafting companies offer short trips on this stretch.
For all-day guided rafting trips, you'll have to drive north to the Warm Springs area to run the lower Deschutes, or south for the North Fork Umpqua, another wild and scenic river.
Vagabond kaykers have all the aforementioned options, as well as the nearly continuous swift water of the Metolius and the challenging, murky flows of the Crooked.
"There's a lot of people here in town who kayak all over the place," said Kirk Barnes at Bend Whitewater Supply.
And this year's big snowpack means another long season for rapids-runners.
"Totally," said Barnes. "Last year flows held almost all summer, and there's a little more snow this year."
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