Summer warmth opens eastern Cascades for hiking

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July 3, 1997

Summer warmth opens eastern Cascades for hiking

By KAREN SYKES
SPECIAL TO THE POST-INTELLIGENCER

Summer has come to the east side of the Cascades. Though many of the higher trails have snow patches, the high country is opening and summer hiking can begin.

The eastern Cascades have many good hikes and backpacks within a great diversity of environments -- deep U-shaped valleys, high peaks and small glaciers, lakes set in rock basins, and alpine meadows graced with golden larches. Western white pine and ponderosa pine populate the broad valley floors in graceful stands and there are around 150 species of birds and 50 species of mammals living in this habitat.

To experience that first heady rush of summer, consider the Beverly-Turnpike Trail, a trail seemingly designed for us light-deprived folks who endure long winters on the western slopes. This hike has plenty of sun (though sudden thunderstorms can boil up out of nowhere and drive climbers off the peaks in a hurry), plenty of flowers and views.

The Beverly-Turnpike Trail crosses a boisterous stream and climbs gently through forest before entering open basins with views of Iron Peak, Teanaway Peak, Volcanic Neck and Bean Peak -- all with the snowy peaks of the Enchantments as a backdrop.

The flowers are profuse -- we saw lupine, pasque flowers, arnica, and phlox. If it is a cloudy day and the peaks are hidden, climb into a flower guide and learn a new flower -- lupine, for example. Sometimes called the sundial plant, the leaves of the lupine follow the sun's path from dawn until dusk.

The birds are singing like crazy and the sweet scent of pine will almost knock you off your feet if the views don't. The climax of this 3-1/2-mile hike is Beverly-Turnpike Pass. Since the last mile still had snow patches, we turned off on the Fourth Creek trail and headed up to a viewpoint on the ridge, though we couldn't see Mount Stuart, the second highest non-volcanic peak in the state.

The best views of Mount Stuart are from Beverly-Turnpike Pass at 3-1/2 miles, 5,800 feet. The mountain was named by Capt. George B. McClellan during a scouting expedition for the Pacific Railroad in 1853 to honor a friend, Jimmie Stuart. You don't have to be a climber to appreciate Mount Stuart -- it can be enjoyed by everyone. Experienced hikers can study the map for possible loop trips utilizing the Bean Creek Trail or the Fourth Creek Trail.

Getting there
Drive Interstate 90 over Snoqualmie Pass, drive through or bypass Cle Elum and turn off on the North Fork Teanaway River Road, drive to 29 Pines Campground (end of pavement). Drive 3-1/2 miles and look for the Beverly Creek Road going off to the right just before a bridge and drive to the road's end at 3,600 feet.

Map

Trail detail
The trail begins climbing through an ancient clearcut and within a quarter of a mile reaches the junction for the Bean Creek Trail. This year the water is high but, aided by walking sticks, we managed to cross on logs. Small children will need help in getting across. If the water is too high, stay on the Bean Creek Trail for an easier crossing upstream and hike back down to the junction along the creek or hike to Bean Basin, an equally satisfying summer hike. Cross the stream and begin climbing through the forest with views of Beverly Creek below. The trail follows the creek through rock gardens, with improving views every step of the way. Shortly after the Fourth Creek junction at 2-1/2 miles, Beverly Creek is crossed again before reaching Beverly-Turnpike Pass at 3-1/2 miles, the ideal spot for lunching and feasting on views of Mount Stuart. Most hikers will turn around here but the trail goes all the way to Ingalls Creek.

Trail data
Round trip to Ingalls Creek is 15 miles, elevation gain is 2,200 feet, 1,000 feet out. Round trip to Beverly-Turnpike Pass is seven miles, 2,000 feet gain.